History Kumaon has a history that dates back to ancient times. Evidence of stone age settlements has been found, especially the rock shelter at Lakhu Udyar. The paintings date back to the Mesolithic-Chalcolithic period.

The sun temple at Katarmal Credit: Karamjeet Singh

In the early medieval period, Kumaon was ruled by the Katyuri dynasty. They ruled from the 7th to the 11th century and at the peak of their rule they controlled large parts of Kumaon, Garhwal and western Nepal. Even the Chinese traveler Huien Tsang mentioned the Katyuri kingdom in his travelogues. Bajinath near present day Almora was the capital of the Katyuri kings and a center of art. Temple building flourished during this period and the Katyuris introduced hewn stones as a replacement for bricks.

Opposite Almora, on a hilltop facing east, is the temple of Katarmal, a 900-year-old sun temple. This was built during the years when the Katyuri dynasty was declining. The carved doors and panels feature intricate carvings. They are currently kept in the National Museum in New Delhi as a protective measure after the 10th century idol of the presiding deity was stolen.

Temple Complex at Jageshwar Credit: Karamjeet Singh

After a period of about two centuries, the Chands of Pithoragarh became the dominant dynasty in the region. At Jageshwar lies a magnificent temple complex with a cluster of 164 temples. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva. This was built by the Chand rulers over a period of two centuries.