Dal and Nagin lakes The Dal and the Nagin lakes with their houseboats and shikaras were major tourist destinations in the 1970s and 1980s before trouble in the region started discouraging tourists. The tourist boom, and the lakes and waterways of Kashmir, strongly affected the population of Kashmir. Tourists' fascination with houseboats led to the creation of a large number of luxurious floating hotels. The increase in tourism also had its downsides. Most of the lakes in Kashmir have been formed from ancient oxbows created by the Jhelum river as it meandered across the valley floor. The present lakes are only a shrunken shadow of their former selves. The Dal Lake has shrunk in the past 50 years to half its size, from 22 sq. km. to about 11 sq. km. The Dal Lake of Srinagar is a prime example of degradation in a Himalayan lake eco-system.

Shikara in the Dal Lake Credit: KOA

Eutrophication is a process that occurs when a water body becomes abnormally rich in nutrients, often by artificial means. This results in abnormal and excessive plant growth. The runoff of chemical fertilizers from the vast drainage basin around the lake, sewage and other oxygen demanding wastes are responsible for bringing in 15 tons of phosphorous and 300 tons of nitrogen every year. These elements promote excessive plant growth on the surface of the lake. As a result the lake's internal life processes fall under severe stress as oxygen does not reach the depths of the lake, since it is blocked by the plants at the surface. The falling of oxygen levels means that fish die out. The decaying of organic matter produces disagreeable odors, and the green scum of algae and weed infested waterways are an eyesore.

From the tourist's point of view, the best initial exploration of Srinagar is to board a shikara and follow its course through the heart of the city, past willow-shaded channels and canals and under the bridges. This is what many people did during the 1970s and 1980s when tourism was at its peak.

Homeward bound a shikara at sunset on the Dal Lake Credit: KOA

A traveler describes this as follows: "At first sight, the city's interior has a spectacular tattiness; the mud, brick and wood houses are crammed cheek by jowl along the waterfront; some look as if they are crumbling and others are indeed propped up with stout pillars of timber. But the impression of decay and disorder recedes as the pattern for living emerges. The river is a place that people live on, as well as live along. Lines of doongas are moored along its banks, the homes of the boat people. Women sit at the prows, pounding grain or calling to each other. As a major artery, the river is punctuated at regular intervals by landing stages leading up to narrow labyrinth-like lanes which connect to the streets beyond, so that there is a constant flow of activity between water and land. Bahatches load or unload cargo. Homes, shops, schools, places of work and worship cluster around the waterfront, a variety within a cohesive unit. Roof-gardens and orchards tumble over the river wall, and carved or latticed windows add a touch of richness. After an hour on the river, you realize that the ugliest buildings are those that are new, slapped together with unattractive concrete and topped with galvanized iron roofing."